Code: MEILLAMP Duration: 6 days
The massif form by Illampu and Jankouma is not only the largest in Cordillera Real, but without any doubtone of the most spectacular landscapes of the Bolivian Andes. According to the Aymara mythology, “Illapa” was the god of the thunder and the rain, a powerful god venerated all around the area.
This is the only 6000er in all Bolivia that has no moderated or normal route. All routes to its summit are difficult, some more than others, so we have chosen the easiest and more popular route by the north wall between Illampu and Schultze peak.
Illampu was first climbed in 1928 by: Pfann, Horescowsky, Hortnagel and Hein brothers. Due to its remoteness and technical difficulties, it is seldom visited and one finds oneself alone on the mountain.
Please note that to take this trip alone, you must already be acclimatized to the highlands. This means that you must have spent at least 3-5 days at the highlands doing light physical activity. For more information about this subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website.
Short Itinerary
Day 1. Transport to Lakatia. Camp.
Day 2. Trek to Camp I. Camp.
Day 3. Trek to Camp II. Camp.
Day 4. Climb of Illampu. Camp.
Day 5. Trek to Lakatia. Camp.
Day 6. Transport to La Paz.
Highlights
- Great sightseeing of Lake Titicaca, the highlands and the valleys of Sorata.
- Spectacular route to Illampu 6,427m.
Services Included
- Meals mentioned in the itinerary.
- Full land transportation during the trip.
- Common camping equipment: 3 season tents (one per each two people), dinning tent, kitchen stuff, and tableware.
- Common climbing equipment: ropes, carabiners, slings, snow stakes, ice screws.
- Professional bilingual UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV certified mountain guide.
- Luggage transportation with porters and/or animals (15 kg/33 lb per person max weight).
- Cook when camping.
- National Park entrance fees.
Services Not Included
- Transfers IN/OUT to airports.
- International & local flight tickets & fees.
- Meals & hotels while in La Paz.
- Personal camping equipment: sleeping bag, mattress, headlamps, and clothing.
- Personal climbing equipment: plastic boots, crampons, harnesses, ice axe.
- Insurance of any kind.
- Any expense due to a rescue operation (rescuers fee, transportation, or medical cost).
Day to day details
Our route will take us first over the “Altiplano” bordering Lake Titicaca, and then through the mountain valleys to reach the village of Sorata set at the foot of the mythical mountain. After having lunch in a very spectacular view-up point with great views of Illampu and the microclimatic valleys of Sorata, we will drive towards the village of Lakatia where we will set our campsite as early as possible in order to get our muleteers and porters organized for the days ahead.
Overnight: Camping
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Sorata: 2,678m (8,784ft)
Lakatia 4,207m (13,799ft)
Driving: 6-7Hrs (180km)
L,D
Today will be quite challenging for all of us, including the mules, muleteers and porters since we have to cross a very high pass and then traverse a rocky area where the glacier used to be before retreating. With the help of the porters, we will traverse granite slopes washed by ancient glaciers, loose scree and old moraines. On the way we will pass a place called “AguasCalientes” (normally these cold waters do not get frozen, and that is the origin of such an ironic name). Today we enjoy wonderful views of the impressive mountains surrounding the campsite.
Overnight: Camping
Willa Kota pass:5012m (16,439ft)
Camp I: 4,980m (16,334ft)
Walking: 6-7Hrs (8km)
B,L,D
After approaching to the glacier, we will sort our way to the highest campsite through a labyrinth of crevasses and seraks over the glacier. We will set our camp in the last plateau opposite to the majestic west face of Illampu. The rest of the day we may need to set a fix a line on the wall.
Overnight: Camping
Camp II: 5,684m (18,643ft)
Walking: 5-6Hrs (3km)
B,L,D
After a light breakfast we will have a very early start, first to climb the steep ice wall (about 250m at 50), which main feature and difficulty is a large crevasse (Bergsrung) in the middle of the wall. Once on top of the crest, we continue following it towards to the summit. Depending of the season, sometimes there is an extra difficulty; that is the last crevasse those flaks the last meters before the summit. The reward after a long day will be the views from the summit; one of the most extraordinary landscapes in the Bolivian Andes. After a short time at thesummit there we will start descending to the high camp where we may need to spend a second night. Late in the afternoon the area near to the top of the wall becomes too dangerous due to rocks falling, if this is the case, we may need to wait until the temperature drops and consolidate this part of the route again.
Overnight: Camping
Illampu: 6,427m (21,080ft)
Camp I: 4,980m (16,334ft)
Walking: 10-12Hrs (3km)
B,L,D
Together with the help of the porters and the mules we will retreat our steps towards the village of Lakatia, crossing again the demanding high pass. There we will camp for the night.
Overnight: Camping
Willa Kota pass:5012m (16,439ft)
Lakatia 4,207m (13,799ft)
Walking: 6-7Hrs (8km)
B,L,D
In the case that we have not used the spare day in the mountain, we will have a full day to return to La Paz taking it easy on the way.
Overnight: None
Sorata: 2,678m (8,784ft)
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Driving: 6-7Hrs (180km)
B,L