Code: MEHUAYNA Duration: 2 days
Huayna Potosí, is Bolivia’s most frequented mountain and probably one of the world’s most visited 6000ers because of its proximity to La Paz, and its moderated normal route.
Its true name is Kaka-aka, meaning “The one that aroused from the rocks”. In the Andean underground religion it is a very important Apu (mountain god). It is believed that the mountain was first conquered in 1919 by the Germans/Austrians R.Dienst y O.Lohse.
There are several travel guides that describe this climb almost like “a walk in the park” and - unfortunately -, there are lots of travelers who believe it and want to attempt the mountain without a proper acclimatization, in the shortest time as possible (usually 2 days), with the less equipment possible and at the lowest price as possible.
Sadly, there are many cheap travel agencies in Sagarnaga Street at La Paz which only care about money and do not hesitate to take complete beginners without training nor acclimatization or proper equipment to climb this mountain.
Please note that to take this trip alone, you must already be acclimatized to the highlands, we a acclimatization period of at least 8 days before attempting this mountain (for more information about this subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website).
After Huayna Potosi we strongly suggest you to extent your trip and adding a set date extension to climb Illimani Mountain MEILLIMA or Sajama volcano MESAJAMA.
Short Itinerary
Day 1. Transport to Plataforma Zongo. Climb to Campo de las Rocas. Mountain hut
Day 2. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Trek to base camp. Transport to La Paz.
Highlights
- Climb of Huayna Potosi 6,088m.
- Splendid views of the highlands, Cordillera Real and Zongo valley.
Services Included
- Meals mentioned in the itinerary.
- 1 night accommodation in mountain hut
- Full land transportation during the trip.
- Common climbing equipment: ropes, carabiners, slings, snow stakes, ice screws.
- Professional bilingual UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV certified mountain guide.
- Luggage transportation with porters and/or animals (15 kg/33 lb per person max weight).
- Cook when camping.
- National Park entrance fees.
Services Not Included
- International & local flight tickets & fees.
- Transfers IN/OUT to airports.
- Meals & hotels while in La Paz.
- Personal camping equipment: sleeping bag, headlamps, and clothing.
- Personal climbing equipment: plastic boots, crampons, harnesses, ice axe.
- Insurance of any kind.
- Any expense due to a rescue operation (rescuers fee, transportation, or medical cost).
Day to day details
In a little more than one hour we will drive from La Paz to Zongo pass at the base of the mountain. After organizing our loads with the high-altitude porters, we will start the ascent following a very marked trail between rocks and moraines on the east face of the mountain. There we will stay in a mountain hut at the edge of the glacier (lower high camp).
Overnight: Mountain hut
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Zongo pass: 4,750m (15,580ft)
High camp: 5,100m (16,728ft)
Driving: 1-2Hrs (45km)
Walking: 3-4Hrs (2.5km)
L,D
Today we will leave the hut very early but later than the rest of the climbers. The reason is to avoid the crowds and reduce the danger of climbing with so many inexperienced people and "pseudo-guides" around us. After a light breakfast we will get ready to start our hike traversing glaciers, across crevices and steep, frozen slopes to arrive at the foot of the final pyramid. There we follow either the north crest or the east wall to the summit (GPS’s have given 6,111m). Later we drop down to Zongo pass and return to La Paz.
Overnight: None
Huayna Potosi: 6,088m (19,968ft)
Zongo pass: 4,750m (15,580ft)
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Walking: 8-10Hrs (7km)
Driving: 1-2Hrs (45km)
B,L