Code: RCQUIMSA Duration: 6 days
Quimsa Cruz is located to the south of Cordillera Real, less than 40 km (25 mi) long, this small mountain range has it all. Named “the Yosemite of south America”, the northern section of this mountain range is mainly composed of great granite peaks and spires, a remote and pristine area paradise for rock climbers looking for "new routes to open".
Unfortunately it takes a full day to get in and another full day to get out from the head-road, what leaves only 4 climbing days at the end, so in order to make the best use of the short four days left, we have selected the best climbing areas in the northern Quimsa Cruz. Besides few bolted routes all the rest are to be lead using rock protection (please contact us for more information about this subject). This itinerary is a suggested idea, we can adjust the length and difficulty according to you experience and expectations.
During the trip we will provide all logistics including: transportation to and from the road head, base camp and advance campsite organization, and the help of an experienced UIAGM mountain guide. For novices the guide will lead the routes taking one or maximum two clients at a time, after some evaluation experienced climbers can be allowed to lead some routes. The guide will have his own climbing equipment including a rope but clients must have their own equipment for the trip.
We have chosen three routes for this trip that will be accomplished depending on weather condition and the capability of the clients. The routes are: Great Wall 250m (820ft) grade 4 French (4 UIAA), Cuernos del Diablo north-west face 200m (656ft) grade 5 French (5- UIAA), and Mama Okllo, 400m (1312ft) grade 6b French (6 UIAA).
Let us say you that our instructors have been trained either by the German Alpine Club (Deutschen Alpenvereins, DAV) or the Chamonix climbing and ski school (ENSA), having them all received the UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV international certification as mountain guides.
Please note that to take this trip alone, you must already be acclimatized to the highlands. This means that you must have spent at least 3-5 days at the highlands doing light physical activity. For more information about this subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website.
Short Itinerary
Day 1. Transport to Cuchu Mocoya. Trek to Penis pass. Camp.
Day 2. Climb of the “Great Wall”. Camp.
Day 3. Trek to Naranjani. Climb of “Cuernos del Diablo”. Camp.
Day 4. Rest day. Camp.
Day 5. Climbing Mama Okllo. Camp.
Day 6. Trek to Cuchu Mocoya. Transport to La Paz.
Highlights
- Great sightseeing of the highlands, La Paz river valley and Quimsa Cruz range.
- Rock climbing on Granodiorite and Andesite; routes for every level of difficulty.
Services Included
- Meals mentioned in the itinerary.
- Full land transportation during the trip.
- Common camping equipment: 3 season tents, dinning and kitchen tents & tableware.
- Common climbing equipment: ropes, carabiners, quick draw, slings.
- Professional bilingual UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV certified mountain guide.
- Luggage transportation with porters and/or animals (15 kg/33 lb per person max weight).
- Cook when camping.
- National Park entrance fees.
Services Not Included
- Transfers IN/OUT to airports.
- International & local flight tickets & fees.
- Meals & accommodation while in La Paz.
- Personal camping equipment: sleeping bag, headlamps, and clothing.
- Personal climbing equipment: climbing shoes, harnesses, chalk bag, ropes, quick draw and hardware.
- Insurance of any kind.
- Any expense due to a rescue operation (rescuers fee, transportation, or medical cost).
Day to day details
Early in the morning we take the paved road that heads south in the highlands, then turn west and start traversing from south to north the western slopes of Quimsa Cruz mountain range. After a long driving day, we will arrive to Cuchu Mocoya mine from where we will trek across a mountain pass towards our campsite located near “Pico Penis” above Chiliwani Kota valley. Since there are no trained porters in the region we will count with the help of some porters brought from La Paz to carry our loads. After helping us, most of the porters will return to the vehicle that will take them back to La Paz (we will count with the same help on the very last day of the expedition). This scenic location all surrounded by granite walls will be our base camp for the following days presenting innumerable climbing possibilities in both sides of the valley and beyond.
Overnight: Camping
La Paz: 3,650 m (11,972 ft)
Campsite: 4,506m (14,779ft)
Driving: 7-8Hrs (300km)
Walking: 3-4Hrs (6km)
L,D
After an early breakfast we will head for the first route of the trip: the north-west ridge of the “Great Wall” 250m (820ft) grade 4 French (4 UIAA). This route will allow you to warm up for harder ones and – from the top -, have a glace of the whole area and recognize your new challenges. Back to the same campsite for the night.
Overnight: Camping
Great Wall: 4,874m (15,987ft)
Campsite: 4,506m (14,779ft)
Climbing: 6-7Hrs (2km)
B,L,D
Today will be a long day because we do not only need to make a long approach to the mountain base and return, but to climb the north-west face 200m (656ft) grade 5 French (5- UIAA). This route has been named as “La Clasica” after the Bolivian-German expedition in 1987. Certainly the toughest part of the day will be to hike back up to the pass after a long climbing day, but the images of a cozy mess tent with a great hot meal will certainly will be encouraging.
Overnight: Camping
Cuernos del Diablo: 5,271m (17,288ft)
Campsite: 4,506m (14,779ft)
Climbing: 9-10Hrs (5km)
B,L,D
Given the long tiring previous day, today has been planned as a rest day, but for those still bursting with energy there are hundreds of bouldering possibilities around the campsite.
Overnight: Camping
Campsite: 4,506m (14,779ft)
None
B,L,D
Today we have planned one of the toughest routes in the area: the south (colder) face of Mama Okllo, 400m (1312ft) grade 6b French (6 UIAA). If the “chef recommendation” do not please you, the guide can take you further north to Calzonani group where the options are so many that it is very difficult to decide “where to start biting for”. We will return to the campsite late evening for the last night of the trip.
Overnight: Camping
Mama Okllo: 5,281m (17,321ft)
Campsite: 4,506m (14,779ft)
Climbing: 7-8Hrs (4km)
B,L,D
Today the same porters who helped us on the first day will come back to help with the equipment transportation to the car. Depending of the road conditions, we may take a shorter route towards La Paz following La Paz river canyon, otherwise we will take the same route we came in 5 days ago.
Overnight: None
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Walking: 3-4Hrs (5km)
Driving: 7-8Hrs (300km)
B,L